Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Paris Couture AW 2012-13: Sunday and Monday

Paris couture week kicked off with a bang on Sunday with Donatella Versace's first couture runway show in seven years, and the juxtaposition between the just-finished menswear shows and Versace's full-blown sexual femininity was hard to ignore.

Beautiful corset gowns and bandage dresses were constructed with tiny slivers of super-shiny silk in pastel colours and multi-coloured prints. There were macs worn with waist-accentuating wrestler belts and perforated leather sitting side-by-side with soft flowing silk. The show was classic Versace: cut-out detailing, tight form-fitting dresses and bold colours; Jessica Alba summed up the show perfectly: "sexy, strong, warrior."


Versace's theme of utter femininity was carried through into Raf Simons' debut collection for Dior, though here the unabashed sex seen at Versace was replaced with pure elegance. There was a modesty and grace to proceedings, with dresses and coats worn below-the-knee and lower.

Waists and hips were accentuated by architectural styling and large pockets, modernising the classic 50s couture silhouette. There were full-skirted strapless gowns seemingly cut off at the upper thigh and worn with cigarette trousers instead. Heavy embroidery and pastel colours were matched with sharp tailoring: truly modern twists on timeless classics.


Simons' modest elegance was embraced by Giambattista Valli too, in what was only his second ever couture show. There was a bucolic fairytale theme floating through this collection: romantic ruffles, watercolour floral prints, and hues of red and green.

But the dream-like whimsy threatened to choke the models, whose dresses at times appeared overly fussy and stuffy; ruffles reached, and indeed surpassed, Elizabethan proportions and veils covered the models' faces. Beneath the ostentatious embellishments were classic silhouettes: knee-length pencil dresses and full-skirted ballgowns in pretty prints with appliqu├ęd embellishments.



  1. The Versace's are total show stoppers. Adore the Dior collection too - so ladylike


    1. Which is your favourite outfit?
      Totally agree about Versace - I'm not usually a fan of their ready-to-wear (too brash for me!), but it works so well for couture!